Blistering

Bubbles or pimples appear in the topcoat film, application.

What went wrong:

1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation. Tiny specs of dirt left on the surface can act as a sponge and hold mosture. When the finish is exposed to the sun (or abrupt changes in atmospheric pressure), moisture expands and pressure builds up. If the pressure is great enough, blisters form.
2. Wrong thinner or reducer. Use of a fast-dry thinner or reducer, especially when the material is sprayed too dry or at an excessive pressure. Air or moisture can be trapped in the film.
3. Excessive film thickness. Insufficient drying time between coats or too heavy application of the undercoats may trap solvents which escape later and blister the color coat.
4. Contamination of compressed air lines. Oil, water or dirt in lines.
5. When wet sanding polyester and applying topcoat without enough time for the water to evaporate.
6. Incompatibility of materials.

Fix: If damage is extensive and severe, paint must be removed down to undercoat or metal, depending on depth of blisters. Then refinish. In less severe cases, blisters may be sanded out, resurfaced and retopcoated.

Next time:

1. Thoroughly clean areas to be painted before sanding. Be sure surface is completely dry before applying either undercoats or topcoats. Don't touch a cleaned area as the oils in your hands will contaminate the surface.
2. Select the thinner or reducer most suitable for existing shop conditions.
3. Allow proper drying time for undercoats and topcoats. Be sure to let each coat flash before applying the next.
4. Drain and clean air pressure regulator daily to remove trapped moisture and dirt. Air compressor tank should also be drained daily.
5. Clean substrate carefully.

Bleeding

Original finish discoloring, or color seeping through the new topcoat color.

What went wrong:

1. Reaction of pigments from the original finish with solvents of the coat which has been applied on top.
2. Contamination - usually in the form of soluble dyes or pigments on the older finish before it was repainted. (This is especially true with older shades of red.)
3. Old finish not well sealed.
4. Use of too much hardener in the polyester putty.

Fix: Sand, isolate the original finish with sealer and reapply the topcoat.

Next time:

1. Test old finish applying a coat of the color on a small area if bleeding is likely to occur, if so apply sealer.
2. Use only to recommended quantity of hardener when mixing the polyester putty.

Boiling

Blisters on the paint surface caused by trapped solvents in the topcoats or primer-surfacer, a situation which is further aggravated by force drying or uneven heating.

What went wrong:

1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation.
2. Wrong thinner or reducer. (The use of fast-dry thinner or reducer, especially when the material is sprayed too dry or at excessive pressure, can cause solvent popping by trapping air in the film.) Thinner too cheap.
3. Excessive film thickness. (Insufficient drying time between coats and too heavy application of the undercoats may trap solvents causing popping of the color coat as they later escape.)
4. Infrared facilities too close.
5. Too low or too high air pressure.
6. Baking was started too soon after application.
7. Baking temperature too high.

Fix: If damage is extensive and severe, paint must be removed down to undercoat or metal, depending on depth of blisters; then refinish. In less severe cases, sand out, resurface and retopcoat.

Next time:

1. Thoroughly clean all areas to be painted.
2. Select the thinner or reducer that is suitable for existing shop conditions.
3. Don't pile on undercoats or topcoats. Allow sufficient flash and drying time. Allow each coat of primer-surfacer to flash off naturally -- do not fan.

Cracking

A series of deep cracks resembling mud cracks in a dry pond. Often in the form of three-legged stars and in no definite pattern, they are usually in the color coat and sometimes the undercoat as well.

What went wrong:

1. Excessive film thickness (Excessively thick topcoats magnify normal stresses and strains which can result in cracking even under normal conditions.)
2. Materials not uniformly mixed.
3. Insufficient flash time.
4. Incorrect use of additive.
5. Surface to be applied is too hot or cold.
6. Use of coats incompatible with each other.
7. Omitting the activator when mixing a 2K product.

Fix: The affected areas must be sanded to a smooth finish, or in extreme cases removed down to the bare metal, and refinished.

Next time:

1. Don't pile on topcoats. Allow sufficient flash and drying time between coats. Do not dry by fanning with compressed air from the spray gun.
2. Stir all pigmented undercoats and topcoats thoroughly. Strain and, where necessary, add Fish Eye eliminator to topcoats.
3. Read and carefully follow label instructions. (Additives not specifically designed for a color coat may weaken the final paint film and make it more sensitive to cracking.

Dissolution

Metallic particles from the basecoat surface in the clearcoat. If severe, the effect can alter the tone and exagerate the metallic appearance.

What went wrong:

1. Tack rag was not used before applying the clearcoat.
2. Basecoat and clearcoat are incompatible.
3. Clearcoat was applied with insufficient flash off the basecoat, or was applied too wet.
4. Air pressure was too high.
5. Wrong thinner.
6. A coat of basecoat was too dry when the next was applied.
7. Basecoat applied too dry.

Fix: Sanding and respray are necessary if the defect is severe.

Next time:

1. Use tack rag if possible.
2. Use recommended products only, with recommended air pressure.
3. Allow evaporation of the basecoat before applying the clear.
4. Use the technique that the process requires.
5. Use recommended thinner.

Dry spray

Granular texture normally with no gloss at all. This defect is normally limited to small areas.

What went wrong:

1. Incorrect viscosity.
2. Wrong thinner/too cheap/too fast.
3. Spraying too fast.
4. Air pressure too high.
5. Spray gun too far from surface while applying.
6. Lack of thinner.
7. Inadequate gun setting.

Fix: Allow the paint to dry and then sand. After sanding and depending on the magnitude of the defect respraying or polishing will be necessary.

Next time:

1. Use recommended thinner.
2. Adjust gun sets, spray pattern, fluid feed.
3. Use recommended air pressure.

Fish eyes

Small, crater-like opening in the finish after it has been applied.

What went wrong:

1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation. (Many waxes and polishes contain silicone, the most common cause of fish eyes. Silicones adhere firmly to the paint film and require extra effort for their removal. Even small quantities in sanding dust, rags, or from cars being polished nearby can cause this failure.)
2. Effects of the old finish or previous repair. (Old finish or previous repair may contain excessive amounts of silicone from additives used during their application. Usually solvent wiping will not remove embedded silicone.)
3. Contamination of air lines, by water or oil.

Fix: After affected coat has set up, apply another double coat of color containing the recommended amount of Fish Eye Eliminator. In severe cases, affected areas should be sanded down and refinished.

Next time:

1. Precautions should be taken to remove all traces of silicone by thoroughly cleaning.
2. Add Fish Eye Eliminator. (The use of Fish Eye Eliminator is in no way a replacement for good surface preparation.)
3. Drain and clean air pressure regulator daily to remove trapped moisture and dirt. Air compressor tank should also be drained daily.

Lifting

Surface distortion or shriveling, while the topcoat is being applied or while drying.

What went wrong:

1. Use of incompatible materials. (Solvents in new topcoat attack old surface which results in a distorted or wrinkled effect.
2. Insufficient flash time. (Lifting will occur when the paint film is an alkyd enamel and is only partially cured. The solvents from the coat being applied cause localized swelling or partial dissolving which later distorts final surface.)
3. Imperper dry. (When synthetic enamel type undercoats are not thoroughly dry, topcoating with lacquer can result in lifting.)
4. Effect of old finish or previous repair. (Lacquer applied over a fresh air-dry enamel finish will cause lifting.)
5. Improper surface cleaning or preparation. (Use of enamel-type primer or sealer over an original lacquer finish which is to be topcoated with a lacquer will result in lifting due to a sandwich effect.)
6. Wrong thinner or reducer. (The use of lacquer thinners in enamel increases the amount of substrate swelling and distortion which can lead to lifting, particularly when two-toning or re-coating.)
7. Application of coats too heavily.

Fix: Remove finish from affected areas and refinish. In very severe cases the whole paint system has to be removed and the surface (bare metal) refinished.

Next time:

1. Avoid incompatible materials such as a thinner with enamel products, or incompatible sealers and primers.
2. Don't pile on topcoats. Allow sufficient flash and dry time. Final topcoat should be applied when the previous coat is still soluble or after it has completely dried and is impervious to topcoat solvents.
3. Select thinner or reducer that is correct for the finish applied and suitable for existing shop conditions.

Mottling

Occurs only in metallics when the flakes float together to form spotty or striped appearance.

What went wrong:

1. Wrong thinner or reducer.
2. Materials not uniformly mixed.
3. Spraying too wet.
4. Holding sray gun too close to work.
5. Uneven spray pattern.
6. Low shop temperature.
7. The flash off the basecoat was too short before the clearcoat was applied.
8. Coat affected by wet or humid air/weather.
9. Coat too heavy.

Fix: Allow color coat to set-up and apply a drier double coat or two single coats, depending upon which topcoat you are applying. If the defect is only visible after the application of the clear, dry the clear, sand it and reapply basecoat and clearcoat.

Next time:

1. Select the thinner or reducer that is suitable for existing shop conditions and mix properly. (In cold, damp weather, use a faster-dry solvent.)
2. Stir all pigmented topcoats - especially metallics - thoroughly.
3. Use proper gun adjustments, techniques, and air pressure.
4. Keep your spray gun clean (especially the needle fluid tip and air cap) and in good working condition.
5. Do not spray the metallic basecoat too wet.

Orange peel

Uneven surface formation - much like that of the skin of an orange - which results from poor coalescence of atomized paint droplets. Paint droplets dry out before they can flow out and level smoothly together.

What went wrong:

1. Improper gun adjustment and techniques. (Too little air pressure, wide fan patterns or spraying at excessive gun distances causes droplets to become too dry during their travel time to the work surface and they remain as formed by gun nozzle.)
2. Extreme shop temperature. (When air temperature is too high, droplets lose more solvent and dry out before they can flow and level properly.)
3. Improper dry. (Gun fanning before paint droplets have a chance to flow together will cause orange peel.)
4. Improper flash or recoat time between coats. (If first coats of enamel are allowed to become too dry, solvent in the paint droplets of following coats will be absorbed into the first coat before proper flow is achieved.)
5. Wrong thinner or reducer. (Under-diluted paint or paint thinned with fast evaporating thinners or reducers causes the atomized droplets to become too dry before reaching the surface.) Too high viscosity.
6. Low shop temperature.Too little thinner or reducer.
7. Materials not uniformly mixed. (Many finishes are formulated with components that aid coalescence. If these are not properly mixed, orange peel will result.)

Fix: Compounding may help - a mild polishing compound for enamel, rubbing compound for lacquer. In extreme cases, sand down to smooth surface and refinish, using a slower evaporating thinner or reducer at the correct air pressure.

Next time:

1. Use proper gun adjustments, techniques, and air pressure.
2. Schedule painting to avoid temperature and humidity extremes. Select the thinner or reducer that is suitable for existing conditions. (The use of a slower evaporating thinner or reducer will overcome this.)
3. Allow sufficient flash and dry time. Do not dry by fanning.
4. Allow proper drying time for undercoats and topcoats. (Not too long or not too short.)
5. Select the thinner or reducer that is most suitable for existing shop conditions to provide good flow and leveling of the topcoat.
6. Reduce to recommended viscosity with proper thinner/reducer.
7. Stir all pigmented undercoats and topcoats thoroughly.

Overspray

Areas with paint particles adhering to the surface of the paint or not completely absorbed into the paint, causing reduction of the gloss.

What went wrong:

1. Excessive air pressure.
2. Poor masking.
3. Wet finish sprayed with dry spray dust.

Fix: Polishing will solve the problem.

Next time:

1. Use recommended thinner.
2. Mask carefully.
3. Organize the sequence of application before starting to prevent dry spray on wet areas.

Peeling

Loss of adhesion between paint and substrate (topcoat to primer and/or old finish, or primer to metal). This defect is often noticed in the body shop when removing the masking tape.

What went wrong:

1. Improper cleaning or preparation. (Failure to remove sanding dust and other surface contaminants will stop the finish coat from coming into proper contact with the substrate.)
2. Improper metal treatment. Metal conditioner and/or wash primer was not used.
3. Materials not uniformly mixed.
4. Failure to use proper sealer.
5. Paint film too thick.
6. Dry application.
7. Film was too dry when the masking tape was removed.
8. Too short flash times.
9. Wrong process / cheap thinner.
10. Poor sanding.
11. Too low/too high surface temperature when applying.

Fix: Remove finish from an area slightly larger than the affected area and refinish.

Next time:

1. Use appropriate grits of sanding material for the topcoats you are using.
2. Seal to eliminate sandscratch swelling. Select thinner or reducer suitable for existing shop conditions.
3. Use proper thinner and reducer for primer-surfacer.
4. Do not apply coats of primer too heavily.
5. Use compatible paint systems.

Pinholing

Tiny holes or groups of holes in the finish, or in putty or primer, usually the result of trapped solvents, air or moisture.

What went wrong:

1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation. (Moisture left on primer-surfacers will pass through the wet topcoat to cause pinholing.)
2. Contamination of air lines. (Moisture or oil in airlines will enter paint while being applied and cause pinholes when released during the drying stage.)
3. Wrong gun adjustment or technique. (If adjustments or techniques result in application which is too wet, or if the gun is held too close to the surface, pinholes will occur when the air or excessive solvent is released during dry.)
4. Wrong thinner or reducer. (The use of a solvent that is too fast for shop temperature tends to make the refinisher spray too close to the surface in order to get adequate flow. When the solvent is too slow, it is trapped by subsequent topcoats.)
5. Improper drying. (Fanning a newly applied finish can drive air into the surace or cause a skin to form, both of which result in pinholing when solvents retained in lower layers come to the surface.)

Fix: Sand affected area down to smooth finish and refinish.

Next time:

1. Thoroughly clean all areas to be painted. Be sure surface is completely dry before applying undercoats or topcoats.
2. Drain and clean air pressure regulator daily to remove trapped moisture and dirt. Air compressor tank should also be drained daily.
3. Use proper gun adjustments, technqiues, and air pressure.
4. Select the thinner or reducer that is suitable for existing shop conditions. If the weather is cold or humid, heat the spraybooth up.
5. Allow sufficient flash and dry time. Do not dry by fanning.

Poor hiding

When the primer or filler are visible through the film of topcoat.

What went wrong:

1. Inadequate lighting in the spraybooth.
2. Color was not well mixed/stirred.
3. Too much thinner was used.
4. Substrate's color was not correct.
5. Insufficient film thickness.

Fix: Allow the finish to dry, then sand and respray.

Next time:

1. Use recommended thinner.
2. Install good lighting equipment.
3. Check gun setting.
4. Mix/stir all colors/tintings thoroughly.
5. Apply the correct quantity of paint (enough).

Runs

Heavy application of sprayed material that fails to adhere uniformly to the surface.

What went wrong:

1. Wrong thinner or reducer.
2. Too much thinner or reducer.
3. Lighting in the spraybooth is not accurate and the painter is unable to apply correctly.
4. Surface is contaminated by oil, grease, etc.
5. Shop or surface too cold.
6. Low air pressure (causing lack of atomization), holding gun too close, or making too slow a gun pass.
7. Incorrect technique of application.
8. Paint drops from the gun.

Fix: Wash off the affected area and let dry until you can sand affected area to a smooth surface and refinish. For solid colors and clearcoats sanding and polishing is recommended. In the case of a basecoat, refinishing after sanding is necessary.

Next time:

1. Allow vehicle surface to warm up to at least room temperature before attempting to refinish. Try to maintain an appropriate shop temperature for paint areas.
2. Use proper gun adjustment, techniques, and air pressure.
3. Don't pile on finishes. Allow sufficient flash off and drying time in between coats.
4. Select proper thinner/reducer.
5. Read and carefully follow label instructions. Select the thinner and reducer that is suitable for existing shop conditions.
6. Install accurate lighting systems in the spray booth.

Sandscratch/swelling

Enlarged sandscratches caused by swelling action of topcoat solvents.

What went wrong:

1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation. (Use of too coarse sandpaper or omitting a sealer in panel repairs greatly exaggerates swelling caused by thinner penetration.)
2. Improper thinner or reducer (especially a slow-dry thinner or reducer when sealer has been omitted.)
3. Under-reduced or wrong thinner (too fast) used in primer-surfacer causes "bridging" of scratches.
4. Primer not well dried before application of color.
5. Application of undercoat too heavy.
6. Application of color when the original finish is too sensitive to paint solvents used.

Fix: Sand affected area down to smooth surface and apply appropriate sealer before refinishing.

Next time:

1. Use appropriate grits of sanding material for the topcoats you are using.
2. Seal to eliminate sandscratch swelling. Select thinner or reducer suitable for existing shop conditions.
3. Use proper thinner and reducer for primer-surfacer.
4. Do not apply coats of primer too heavily.
5. Use compatible paint systems.

Scratches

The topcoated glossy surface has lost its gloss and has hair-fine lines/scratches overall.

What went wrong:

• The problem is normally caused by frequent use of car washing using washing machines.

Fix: A good valeting by machine using a good polish without silicone. In severe cases, sand and re-paint.

Next time:

• Maintain and protect the topcoat of the vehicle using a non-silicone containing polish or wax.

Slow drying

The paint takes too long before hardening.

What went wrong:

Wrong activator (too little or too much).

1. Heavy application.
2. Thinner too slow/too cheap.
3. Poor drying conditions: too humid weather, unventilated.
4. Insufficient flash off time between coats.

Fix: Place the vehicle in a ventilated/warm area. The drying process may be accelerated with the application of heat.

Next time:

1. Use recommended thinner.
2. Apply recommended film thickness.
3. Allow enough flash off time.
4. Spraying and drying conditions could be improved.

Water spotting

General dulling of gloss in spots or masses of spots.

What went wrong:

1. Water evaporating on finish before it is thoroughly dry.
2. Washing finish in bright sunlight.

Fix: Compound or polish with rubbing or polishing compound. In severe cases, sand affected areas and refinish.

Next time:

1. Do not apply water to fresh paint job and try to keep newly-finished car out of rain. Allow sufficient drying time before delivering car to customer.
2. Wash car in shade and wipe completely dry.

Wrong color

The color of the repaired part changes from the originally applied on the car.

What went wrong:

1. The recommended formula was not used.
2. Incorrect gun-setting and pressure.
3. The original finish has yellowed due to weathering exposure.
4. Wrong application technique (especially applicable to metallics).
5. The color was not well stirred.

Fix: Sand and respray again the color after having chosen the right formula or matched using the color guide.

Next time:

1. Use the right formula.
2. Stir colors thoroughly.
3. Polish adjacent panels to check the color.
4. If necessary follow the instructions of our color guide to match the old finish color.
5. Use the spraying technique which better adapts to the required color matching.
6. Make a test on a small panel before you start painting the vehicle.